Flanders Red #2

My first attempt at a Flanders Red has been coming along really well so I decided to get started on batch #2.  I brewed this batch on 4/6/2012 and the brew session was fairly uneventful.  

The recipe itself was basically the same as the first batch, but some of the grains were from different maltsters.

One other note, I bought two Roesalare blends back in October when I brewed the first batch, but only used one.  I used the second one for this batch but ran into some issues.  The smack pack didn't swell at all and after a couple days there was no visible signs of fermentation...no krausen, no positive pressure in the airlock, nothing.  I suspect the viability of the saccharomyces strains must have diminished quite a bit.  I had some WLP001 that I'd saved from a previous batch so I went ahead and pitched it and the brew showed signs of active fermentation later in the day.  It'll be interesting to see if this one develops differently than batch #1.

5.25 # Weyermann Pilsner Malt
5.25 #  Weyermann Vienna Malt
1.00 # Weyermann Munich II Malt
0.5 # Briess Red Wheat Malt
0.5 # Castle Aromatic Malt
0.5 # Weyermann CaraMunich II
0.5 # Dingemans Special B
0.8 oz Aged hops** (60 minutes)
1.0 oz Oak cubes (French Medium Roast) soaked in a couple ounces of Cabernet Sauvignon
Wyeast 3763 Roesalare Blend (no starter)

Mashed at 154F for 90 minutes.  90 minute boil.

** The aged hops are my homegrown hops from the 2009 harvest.  This was when my hops were in their temporary locations, so it's a mix of varieties resulting from intertwined bines.  For sour beers you don't really want any hop flavor or aroma; that's where aging comes in.  I aged these hops by placing them in brown paper bags above my kegerator.  The changing temperatures over the years has completely stripped them of any hop aroma.

Fermentation Notes
As noted above, the start of fermentation was sluggish until I added the WLP001.  Fermentation picked up but it wasn't quite as active as the first batch (no threat of pushing up through the airlock).  Things slowed down after a week then picked up again after a couple weeks (much like batch #1).  I've already added some dregs from commercial sours (e.g. Petrus Aged Pale).

Update 5/4/2012
Fermentation is still chugging along.  I've been fermenting it in my ferm chamber at 70F.  I'm going to move it to the basement utility room next to batch #1 today because we're doing a Big Brew tomorrow and I need to set the ferm temp at 66F for that.  There are mild seasonal temp changes in the utilit room, but overall the temps stay pretty stable so it's a good place for aging.

Update 5/27/2012
Pitched dregs from Russian River Supplication and oak soaked in Cabernet Sauvignon.

Update 6/8/2012
Added dregs from Petrus Aged Ale.  I noticed the airlock had some positive pressure and there was a burp before I removed the bung

Update 9/15/2012
Added dregs from Sophie from Goose Island.

Update 9/22/2012
This beer is much more sour than the last time I tasted it (forgot to log the date but it was probably 6/24), but it's still much more of a mellow sour compared to the October Flanders Red.  There is a small pellicle.  My refractometer shows 10.4 brix down from 12 brix on 6/24/2012.

Update 10/30/2012
Added dregs from Duchesse De Bourgogne.

Update 1/29/2013
Checked this one again today and it's down to 10.2 brix. It's tart but still not quite as tart as batch #1. It still has a dusty looking pellicle, although it doesn't cover the entire top. Seems to be progressing nicely.

Dusty pellicle on Flanders #2

Update 4/6/2013

Pulled a sample today. It still has a little bit of a dusty pellicle. The gravity hasn't changed at all since the last reading (10.2P) but the tartness level has increased significantly and is on par with batch #1. I think I'll try to bottle this later this month.

Update 8/22/2013

So I just barely got around to bottling this batch. It's tart but it's definitely different than batch #1. I'd say it's much more fruity or at least the fruity character is more complex. I get pie cherries like #1, but there's also some darker stone fruit character. This is still carbing in the bottle so I'll prob give it another month before cracking one open.

Update 8/26/2014
This beer just took a gold medal for Category 17 in the 2014 Beehive Brew-Off! Pretty excited and happy that a more acidic example was chosen by the judges. Pretty much all my sours tend to be really sour and they haven't done all that great in competition. They usually score well, but time after time I've gotten comments like "I really like this beer but it's too sour for the style." At some point they'll add an American Sour category that will allow for higher intensity sours.

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Irish Red Ale

I brewed an Irish Red Ale on 3/19/2012.  I've never brewed this style before, but my wife had one on vacation a couple years back and really liked it.  My brew club is also doing the AHA Club Only Competitions, and for April the style is Scottish/Irish Ales.

11.25 # Crisp Maris Otter

6.0 oz Briess Crystal 40L

6.0 oz Briess Crystal 120L

6.0 oz Briess Roasted Barley 300L

1.25 oz EK Goldings 60 min

5.2 pH Stabilizer

1 Whirfloc

Mashed at 153F for 60 min

90 minute boil

Fermented at 66F

Update 4/25/2012: I put this one on tap about a week ago.  It turned out really well but it didn't clear quite as much as I had hoped.  It's a nice reddish brown.  Flavor profile is definitely malt focused so at first it seems a bit sweet, but finishes fairly dry.  There's also enough bitterness there from the hops to balance it out.  I think I like Ordinary/Special/Extra Special Bitters and American Pale Ales better, but this is still a good beer and seems like it would be a fairly easy drinking beer.

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Sierra Nevada Pale Ale 2012 Experiment

I bought a hopback from Morebeer a while back.  I used it once and it seemed like I got some decent aroma from using it, but I only used about 2 ounces.  I haven't made a SNPA clone for a while and with spring and warmer weather right around the corner I thought this would be a great time to make a nice hoppy pale ale.  I actually brewed this back on 3/4/2012.

8.0 # Briess 2-row

1.0 # Crystal 40L

9 oz Cara-Pils

1 oz Pearle 90 min

1 oz Cascade 15 min

1 oz Cascade 5 min

1 oz Cascade Dry Hop after primary fermentation subsides

About 4 oz Cascade and 2 oz Chinook in hopback, both homegrown in the hopback.

1 Whirfloc

5.2. pH Stabilizer

Mashed at 151F for 60 min.  90 minute boil.  Collected 6.5 gallons.  Pre-boil = 11.2P, post-boil = 14.1P.  I had to add 64oz of RO water with 35 min left in the boil due to high evaporation rate.  Fermented at 62F for two days then upped the temp to 63F.  Added dry hops after 6 days.  This stuff smells awesome!  I kegged it on 3/24/2012 and it's conditioning.

Updated 4/25/2012 - I really like this beer.  After a winter of high gravity beers this one seems very light and refreshing.  Hop aroma and flavor are great.  I haven't done a side by side tasting so I don't know how close it is to SNPA, but it turned out great.  Hop aroma is kind of perfume-like...very floral in nature.  Bitterness seems very well balanced with the malt.  I think I might up the late hop additions next time to try to add even more aroma.    

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Bacon Anyone?

Today's post is a litttle different in that it doesn't have much to do with brewing.  As I've mentioned before, I love smoked foods.  I have a stainless steel Great Outdoors propane smoker that I got from Sam's Club years ago.  It's awesome because the temperature can be easily adjusted to compensate for weather conditions unlike my previous smoker (charcoal smoker) that had a hard time maintaining temps in bad weather.

I've smoked a little bit of everying on my smoker including beef brisket, chicken, turkey, fish, and of course the king of BBQ: pork.  I've also used it to smoke grain for brewing but I've always been a little concerned about the heat and it's impact on roasting the grains.  I've always wanted to be able to do cold smoking for things like cheese but even on it's lowest settting my smoker generated too much heat for these kinds of things.

I did a little research a couple years ago and came accross the Pro-Q Cold Smoke Generator.  It's basically a metal tray with dividers aranged to form a maze.  You fill it with hardwood sawdust, light one end, and it slowly smolders providing up to eight hours of smoke.  I really liked the simple design but thought it was a bit overpriced.  Despite the price, I finally bit the bullet and ordered one a couple of weeks ago.  I'm basically using it inside my regular smoker without turning on the propane burner.  So on a day like today where it's about 42F outside, I can smoke things well below cooking temps without worrying about them spoiling.  I used it to smoke the grain for a recent smoked porter that I brewed and it seemed to work well.  I'm looking forward t trying this beer as soon as it's ready.  I also smoked some cheese with it and the cheese turned out fantastic.

I started reading through some other blogs and was turned on to an interesting book, Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing.  This book is really cool and I'm looking forward to trying out the recipes and processes.  In a sense, I've already had some experience with curing meat.  The dry rubs I've used to make things like pulled pork and the brines I've used to make smoked turkey essentially involve curing the meat, but this book takes it to another level.  If you have any interest in hand-crafted artisan style meats I suggest you pick up this book.

All this leads me to today's post.  I decided to try to make my own bacon.  Based on my reading thus far, it seems to be one of the simplest cured meats to make, so it seemed like a good starting place.  The recipe for a basic cure in Charcuterie calls for pink salt (Prague Powder #1) but I wasn't able to find any locally so I'm going to have to order some online.  In the meantime, I found a  recipe that recommended equal parts sugar and Morton's Tender Quick.  Morton's Tender Quick is a meat cure that contains both sodium nitrite and sodium nitrate.  I mixed this up and and applied it to 2 lbs of pork belly that I picked up at the local Asian market.  It's been curing in the fridge all week.  Today I'm using the Pro-Q to cold smoke the cured bacon and with any luck we should be enjoying some tasty smoked bacon with our Superbowl Sunday breakfast.

You want to know how good bacon is?  To improve other foods they wrap them in bacon.  The only bad thing about bacon is it makes you thirsty...for more bacon
-Jim Gaffigan


The angle of the sun made it hard to get decent pics of the bacon in the smoker.  Here's a couple of the better ones.

***Update 3/30/2012***
So the first attempt at making bacon had mixed results.  I cooked up some right after taking it off the smoker and it was good but not great.  It could have been an issue with the cure (one I found on the internet), the smoke (cherry, which tends to be mild), my process, or a combination the above.  I didn't end up using it for a Superbowl breakfast afterall; instead I sliced it, froze it, and took it with us on a family trip a couple weeks later.  By the time we cooked it up, it was mediocre at best...lost a lot of smoke character and pretty much just tasted like a piece of bland fried meat.  

For the second attempt I used the basic cure recipe from Charcuterie.  I read some posts online about making bacon, and several people mentioned how much better it was when they either hot smoked the bacon, or cold smoked it followed by finishing it off in a 200F oven.  One comment was that it tended to cook up crispier after hot smoking and the fat consistency changed.  

For the second attempt, I cold smoked over hickory for about nine hours, followed by a rest, then hot smoked long enough to reach an internal temp of 150F (about three hours).  This time it turned out awesome and I'd definitely make it again!

Cold smoking the pork belly

Smoke wafting upwards

After eight hours of smoking over cherry wood

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Smoked Porter 2012

Today I'm brewing a Smoked Porter that with any luck should turn out similar to Alaskan Brewing Co.'s Alaskan Smoked Porter.

This was the first brew using my newly finished grain mill.  Everything worked well and I milled using the factory gap of 0.045".  I should get more predictable efficiencies regardless of whether I buy grain locally or via the Internet.

The original recipe called for WLP001 California Ale Yeast.  WLP001 is a pretty neutral yeast and ferments very clean.  I've never used Cry Havoc before but from what I've read it's also very clean when fermented at cooler temps.  It's worth mentioning, Cry Havoc is capable of fermenting at both ale and lager temps.  For this recipe, I'll be fermenting at 58F which is at the warmer end of this yeast's lager range.  Ester production should be minimal, so I'm expecting final results similar to WLP001.  Per the reviews I've read, this yeast can sometimes have a hard time fully attenuating.  Because of this, I'm going to mash lower than the original recipe called for.

8.75 # Briess Pale Malt
4.00 # Munich Malt 10L
1.25 # Chocolate Malt
0.50 # Black Patent
1 oz Chinook 60 min
1 oz Willamette 10 min
WLP862 Cry Havoc Yeast

Recipe Notes:  The entire grain bill was smoked over a combination of cherry, apple, and hickory woods.  Grains were mashed at 151.5F.  5.2 pH Stabilizer was used in the mash.  I've used the 5.2  pH  Stabilizer in a few batches now and it seems to be working well.  I don't have a  pH  meter, but I have  pH  test strips and it seems to do a great job of maintaining optimal mash pH.  It's pretty cheap and it's one less thing to worry about.

Brewing Notes:
Most of my brew days go smooth; today was the exception.  I had two boil-overs because I wasn't paying close enough attention during the boil.  I'm going to pick up some Fermcap-S one of these days so that I don't have to worry about messy boil-overs anymore.

I had a couple issues after the boil as well.  To chill the wort, I usually go from kettle to pump to hop/trub filter to plate chiller to fermentor.  This time I decided to try to recirculate from the chiller back to the boil kettle.  This should have resulted in cooling the entire batch at once.  A good idea but the hop/trub filter clogged on me...twice.  When I took the hop/trub filter apart, I temporarily misplaced one of the tri-clover gaskets.  Not the kinds of things I expected but all in all it was still a good brew day.  Hopefully DMS won't be an issue in this beer.

Also worth mentioning when brewing smoked beers, I brewed a rauchbier a while back and ran into some issues.  When brewing smoked beers, make sure the chlorine has been removed from your brewing water.  You can do this a couple different ways including pre-boiling or using a good carbon water filter.  If chlorine is present in your brewing water, you will most likely end up with chloropenols in your finished product.  Long story short it smells and tastes like plastic band-aids...not good.  From what I can tell, it doesn't age out, so if it's there you might as well dump the batch.

Updated 4/25/2012
This beer turned out great.  It has a nice mellow and subtle smokiness.  I actually prefer a bit more of a smoky profile but I think most people would probably prefer a subtle smoke like this one has.  Next time I'll probably use all hickory and smoke the grain a bit longer.  The Cry Havoc yeast seemed to work well although it didn't dry out as much as I would have liked,  That seems to be fairly common with this yeast.  On the plus side, there was no hint of any kind of band-aid flavors or DMS.

I had my wife pick up a bottle of Alaskan Brewing's Smoked Porter on a recent trip to Vegas.  I haven't had a chance to do it yet but I'll do a side by side tasting at some point.

Update 8/3/2012
As I mentioned before, this beer turned out great.  It recently finished 2nd place in my club's Porter competition.  It probably would not have done as well if the smoke character had been more pronounced like I wanted.

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