Today's post is mostly about o-rings. Not the most exciting topic, but o-rings are pretty vital to homebrewers especially once you get into things like kegging, a pump, or decide to throw together a weldless kettle fitting. Not to sound like a grumpy old man, but I swear you used to be able to buy all sorts of o-rings at local hardware stores for super reasonable prices; I'm talking less than 10 cents each. Now you go somewhere like Lowe's, Home Depot, or even Ace Hardware and you'll be lucky to find the size you need and/or it only comes in an assortment pack that costs $10-$20. Or say in the case specialty brewing equipment like homebrew pumps, you order from the manufacturer and you pay $5+ for a single o-ring plus $7 to ship it. I believe in supporting the homebrewing industry, but I have a hard time paying inflated prices for something that likely costs a couple cents to manufacture.
If you're looking for a good supplier of o-rings and similar gaskets, I highly recommend
O-rings and More. They have a huge selection plus reasonable prices and very affordable shipping. They do often have minimums (e.g. 5, 10, 50 pieces) but with their pricing, you're still coming out way ahead.
Side note, I always use silicone lubricant (AKA Keg Lube) on my o-rings. It doesn't take much, but it helps to ensure they seat correctly when assembling equipment and prevents issues with binding and deforming. Material-wise, I tend to use either Silicone or Buna Nitrile rings, and both tend to be 70 durometer hardness. Basically, the higher the hardness, the firmer the material, the lower the softer the material. It's also a good idea to make sure the materials are food safe, but I haven't ever seen any that aren't. Also, Buna-N tends to be less permeable to O2, so I usually use it for keg lids rather than Silicone.
I'll update this post as I come across additional o-ring needs, but here are the common ones I've encountered so far.
| Keg and Draft O-rings |
| Description |
Size |
Comments |
| Dip Tubes |
-109 |
The o-rings that slide onto dip tubes (gas and liquid) and seal them
against the threaded male posts on the kegs. Use a quad or x-ring style
as this will provide much better sealing than a standard round cross
section o-ring. This is especially true if you run any high pressure
kegs (e.g. nitro beers). I believe I've only ever used Buna-N for these.
|
| Internal Ball-lock |
-013 |
The o-rings that are internal on standard ball-lock disconnects (grey
gas, black liquid). I believe it's the same size on standard pin-lock
kegs as well. These are easily lost during cleaning. If missing, your
disconnect will leak. Quad or x-ring styles seal better.
|
| Keg Lids |
-417 |
The large o-ring that seals between the lid and keg body. Both Buna and
Silicone work well, though Buna-N is more common.
|
| Posts |
-111 |
These slide onto the posts and prevent leaks between posts and quick
disconnects. Silicone tends to last longer than Buna-N. I often use
natural red, but recently switched to green ones from
Value Brew
to quickly identify gas posts. This is especially handy for connections on Kegmenter fermenters where gas vs. liquid isn't as as obvious. |
| Blichmann Equipment O-rings |
| Description |
Size |
Comments |
| G2 Linear Valves |
-112 and -110 |
The G2 linear valve has two sizes of o-rings. -112 is the larger and
prevents liquid from leaking out the valve body. -110 is the smaller
one that seals the cone-shaped stopper that is used to control the rate
of flow. By the way, I love these valves as they are super easy to clean
and make fine adjustments to flow rate.
|
| Riptide Pump |
-143 |
This is the large o-ring that provides the seal between the pump head
and the motor.
|
| Riptide Pump Thrust Washer |
See comment |
Not an o-ring, but a part that's easy to lose is the thrust washer on a
Riptide pump head. I found that a standard Hillman 6mm stainless steel
washer worked perfectly. As long as the finish looks nice and smooth,
any 6mm stainless washer should work.
|
| False Bottom Washer |
See comment |
Not an o-ring, but a washer that slides over the kettle pickup tube and
prevents grain from getting through the gap and under the false bottom.
A standard 1/2" × 1 1/2" stainless fender washer will do the
trick here.
|
| Spike Equipment O-rings |
| Description |
Size |
Comments |
| Flo Pump ARV |
-012 |
The o-ring for the Air Release Valve. I haven't confirmed the size on
this part, but I saw it referenced online so I've included it here.
|
| Flo Pump Head |
66418MMS |
This is the large o-ring that provides the seal between the pump head
and the motor. It's a metric o-ring measuring 66.4mm ID × 70mm OD ×
1.8mm C/S. The size referenced here is O-rings and More's SKU.
|
| SS Brewtech Equipment O-rings |
| Description |
Size |
Comments |
| Bucket valve |
16220MMB70 |
The o-ring that fits between the valve and the body of the SS Brew
Bucket. I always use silicone lube on these and be sure not to
overtighten them. You want them finger tight, but not so tight that
they're deforming or tearing. The size on my buckets are 16mm ID. The
C/S on mine vary between 2.2 and 2.3 mm. On SS Brewtech's site, they
indicate the C/S is 1.8mm, so this may be an updated size compared to
what came with mine. I haven't ordered any yet, but I'd likely go with
16mm ID × 20.4mm OD × 2.2mm C/S, which would be SKU 16220MMB70 on
O-rings and More.
|
| Bucket racking arm |
851MMB70 |
These are the two small o-rings that slide over the racking arm and
allow the racking arm to push-fit into the valve body. The buckets came
with two of these on the racking arm, but they work fine with one. Be
sure to use silicone grease on them as they tend to bind and/or deform
when used without lube. If lost or damaged, you'll lose siphon and
leave beer behind in your fermenter. I've tried both Buna-N (OEM from
SS Brewtech) and Silicone, and the Buna-N ones seem to be more durable.
These o-rings measure 8.5mm ID × 10.5mm OD × 1mm C/S, and the size
listed here is the SKU on O-rings and More's site.
|
| Misc O-rings |
| Description |
Size |
Comments |
| Heating Element |
-217 |
This was used primarily for heating elements on The Electric Brewery
style assemblies. These aren't too common anymore with people buying
off-the-shelf All-in-One systems. Also, those building their own systems
are typically using Tri-Clamp style elements rather than threaded
elements.
|
| Temp Probe |
-009 |
This o-ring is used in a compression type fitting in conjunction with a
1/4" diameter temp probe like those used with the BCS-460
controller. These will also work as the outer o-ring on Blichmann Brew
Commander temp probe fittings. They create a tight leak-free fitting
that can also be easily disassembled.
|
| Old School Weldless |
-211 |
These were often used on old school 1/2" weldless bulkhead
fittings, aka The Electric Brewery style fittings. Typically these
would be used with a thin washer. The thin washer's ID was slightly
larger than the o-ring's OD, and served to keep the o-ring from
squeezing out while the fitting was tightened. The washer became less
important as locknuts with grooves became more common. Regardless, this
o-ring is used primarily in 1/2" bulkheads. I've used these in
equipment I've repurposed for brewing so that I could have leak-free
bulkheads.
|
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